The clear coat plays a vital role in enhancing the shines and durability of the paints of objects like automobiles. However, they, just like every other kind of finishing, also sustain scratches and diminish in potency over time. This subsequently calls for their removal and eventual replacements.
While it is a common phenomenon, the removal of such a coat need not necessarily have to damage the underlying paint. Our goal in this particular discussions is to let you know how to remove clear coat without necessarily damaging the underlying paint.
How To Remove Clear Coat Without Damaging Paint
Required Tools and Materials
- 400 grit sandpaper
- 800 grit sandpaper
- 1000 grit sandpaper
- 1,200 grit sandpaper
- Electric polisher
- Washing Hose
- 100% wool pad
- Spray Detailer
Step-by-step Procedures – How to Sand a Clear Coat Without Sanding the Paint
Soak some 400 grit sandpaper
This might appear strange but the first and foremost procedure should be to soak the 400 grit sandpaper in water. To do this, immerse the sandpaper in a bucket full of water for around 10 minutes to an hour. The aim of this step is to empower the 400 grit sandpaper to be able to rid the surface of the automobile of the settled clear coat.
Wash the vehicle
After soaking the sandpaper, you now need to go ahead and wash the vehicle completely. Paint repair and maintenance jobs generally require extra clean surfaces. Take your time to wash your car by soaking it, taking care not to generate new scratches and dents in the process.
Make do with a sponge, medicated soap, and brush to clean the vehicle and rid it of any unwanted blemishes. As soon as you are done with cleaning the vehicle, use a soft and dry cloth to wipe off excess moisture from the vehicle. If possible, be sure to dry the vehicle completely.
Wet-sand the clear coat material
Now proceed to wet-sand the clear coat material. Get hold of the 400 grit sandpaper which you had soaked in water in step I above. Rub it gently atop the surface to even out the scratches and weaken the clear coat. Place the sandpaper as nearly as 1 inch away from scratch as possible. Being by far the most significant step in the entire process, you will have to spend a bit of your time to get it right.
Use higher grit sandpaper to continue wet sanding the paint
After you have sanded the entire car with the 400 grit sandpaper, graduate to the finer and higher rated sander. Slowly introduce and use the 800, 1000 and finally the 1,200 grit sandpaper. At this stage, commence sanding at about ½ inches outside the perimeter of the outcomes you attained using the 400-grit perimeter.
To ascertain whether you are making any progress or not, check and feel the outcomes. The best outcomes should appear like the crosshatch. As such, it should also feel very smooth to the touch and hands. You might have to make a couple of extra passes to attain this outcome.
Tape the delicate parts and surfaces of the car
As soon as you are now satisfied with the final outcomes, you have to tape the delicate parts and surfaces of the car. This is in preparation for the application of the undercoat which might normally interfere or even compromise these parts. Examples of these delicate parts include tail lights, headlights, mirrors, handles, screen wipers, and rims.
Dry-sand the Car
Wait for the car to completely dry. Proceed to dry-sand it. Use the finer higher grit sandpapers such as the 600 – 800 grit sandpaper to do the job. As you go about this procedure, you should focus on achieving the smooth even finishes.
It is advisable to sand at an angle of 45° while tackling scratches. For normal scratching outcomes, you just have to flow with the natural grains for optimal outcomes. The aim of this procedure is to come up with some even tone and extra smooth finishes.
Rinse the sanded car
Now pour some water on the car to rid it of the finer grit and particles. Check the nature of the wastewater to see to it that it turns milky. As soon as it turns so, stop sanding. Any further sanding might now interfere with the undercoat. Wipe with a clean cloth and leave to dry.
Polish the sanded portion of the car with some polish
Finish off by applying polish to the sanded portion of the car. Utilize the electric polisher and set it at a lower rotational speed of around 1,200-1,400 revolutions per minute. Work preferably in the cyclic motion as this is the best. It ensures some overlap which sees to it that every bit and piece of the surface is impacted. Make deliberate efforts also to apply the polish evenly to all the regions.
Alternatively, you may use the 100% wool pad to do the job manually, if you do not have the electric polisher. Use the polish sparingly to avoid sustaining burns or compromising the quality of the final outcomes.
At this stage, the scratches will have already disappeared. However, you will still remain with some swirls which you have to get rid of. Switch to a softer polishing pad and use the finishing polish also. You are free to run the polisher at higher revolutions per minute to generate stronger shines much faster.
Clean the polished area
Lastly, clean the polished area to make it look brighter. Apply the spray detailer on the polished spots to bring about the shiny and clean finish. If you so wish, you may also apply a coat of wax. While at it, do not leave the polisher on a single spot for too long. This is because its face rotates too fast and can damage the affected region faster.
This task is not for the faint-hearted. It is quite elaborate, requires great patience, and may easily pose some damages to the various parts and components of the car. If you are uncertain about it, you are advised to delegate it to a trained expert or qualified mechanic. The costs which come along with any damages are often too great to bear. Best of luck in your next clear coat removal exercise!